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So how to calculate their length? Well, we measure the length black and red lingerie of our edge from the end of the wings. up to the central point and then we extract around 5-10 percent. The length of the percentage depends on how stretchy our elastic is. For convenience, I usually extract 10% and then add from one side to centimeters to this length. Start four or five centimeters from the other side to make this cross in the middle after. I pin my elastics at the center and along the edge of this. The edge equally distributes the length of the ends of my elastic that are in the center. I do not stretch, just lay them flat and pin the ends. So that they do not disturb me later, I decided to make a straight stitch in the center, fixing two elastics to the main material.

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Then I stitch my elastic with a stretch stitch on this sewing black and red lingerie machine. I can go up to seven millimeters. wide on the previous machine that you saw in the first part of this website. In my parents’ home, I can only go up to four or five millimeters. So there I would attach my elastic with two zigzag stitches from the top and the bottom. My elastic both ways is right, it just depends. On your sewing machine, I stitch all the way to the center and see if it would be another material. I’d stop at the center and try to make a mirror from where this stitch will be visible from the front. The stitch’s reflection, but here I just rotate on my needle and keep going until. In the end, the next step would be to attach the underwire channeling. For the seam allowances at the beginning, I was thinking of using this channeling, but it has this ugly white. 

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The channel’s beginning, end, and point of balance will assist me in distributing its length evenly. Here I decided to hand stitch my channel into the seam allowance of my channel. It’s just too stiff for the pins I need to attach my channeling directly close to the stitch. One millimeter over it, I start from the center and make a straight stitch. I’m one millimeter from the edge, but I don’t go all the way; instead, I stop my stitch and go back. stitching two millimeters before our underarm seam allowance. Later, I can easily trim it and my elastic can cover this place without extra thickness. I trimmed everything that was peeking under my channeling  and now I need to stitch my channel a second time. I match a small hand stitch and secure the bent elastic ends. We are near our first seam, so by attaching the channeling the second At that time, we will attach this band elastic permanently and then we can easily remove it. Our hand stitch from the right side of our garment, well, everything looks pretty accurate. The important thing is that our channeling covers some width of our band elastic. This is the right technology and it’s usually pre-calculated in the pattern.

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It is time for the upper edge elastic. The same way, I measure the length and extract ten percent plus. one to two centimeters at the beginning and end this time. At the edge of the elastic, it is time to attach the channeling to the sides. I will not pin or hand stitch this detail. It is quite comfortable just to hold it while I’m stitching. I stitch one millimeter from the edge. I start from the top, go to the bottom, then I stop, rotate, make a few stitches, and go back to the top. So basically, I do.

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I will make a frequent zigzag stitch from the bottom to secure my opening and then I will just trim the rest. Now I need to measure how long the bones are. I need I do not like to use ready-made bonings because you need to adjust your pattern. So I used the roll and I curved the edge of my boning with my scissors. To prevent any sharp corners that could damage my channeling in the future, I cut the length of my boning so that there would be another few millimeters. from the top to make another zigzag and not to catch the boning lingerie with a needle. I made another zigzag stitch trimmed to the excess and this part of the work is done. Moving on, after removing my hand stitch, I will attach my iron hook. There is always a question about how this closure has to be positioned. I just took one bra I own and I will take this as an example. I recommend you do the same. You can attach your iron hook with a zigzag or you can make a straight stitch instead. The tricky part is the side with the hooks You can use a special presser foot that will allow you to go closer to the hooks, but you need to use a narrow zigzag or a regular presser foot. Well, in both my cases, my stitching was not very accurate.